Kothi village, Kalpa, Himachal Pradesh

If Kalpa is thought of a bride, Kothi can, undoubtedly, be its 'sindur' (vermillion) and I am sure those who ever visited Kothi while staying at Kalpa know by heart that I am not exaggerating. Indeed, Kothi possesses such beauty that definitely holds you spellbound. It is situated a bit lower area of Kalpa HPTDC guest house. From words of mouth of local people and the waiter of the HPTDC, we have come to know of this place. We then decided to go there on the very next day. And WHAT A JOURNEY IT WAS! It is about 5 km away from HPTDC Kinnaur-Kailash Hotel. Our Tempo Traveller seemed to be a bit large for the roads that lead to Kothi. However, with the help of Navigation of Google Map, we started our journey amidst the Apple orchards of Kalpa. Truly, I have never seen such beautiful scenario in my whole life. Here and there, only Apple trees loaded with ripen apples of different colours-red, green, golden. It seemed that as if we could pluck apples from the window of the car but we didn't. Somehow, we thought this kind activity may bother other local people and moreover, our conscience. At the entrance of the Kothi village, there is a huge gate crafted with wooden works. So, we had to walk at least 500 meter. But, those moments of walking seemed to be everlasting ones to us since here for the first time we encountered the hospitality of Himalayan people and of course the people Kinnaur people. Just we stepped 10-15 meters from the main entrance, we came across a Kinnaur family basking in the sunlight. They had a a green apple tree on their lawn and I was busy taking pictures of some kids of the family who were watching us with an amaze bewilderment. Suddenly, I requested them to give us some apples. And they were very kind enough to accept our request and asked me to pluck apples myself. I was so happy that immediately I took a few snaps of myself plucking those Green Apples from the trees. There I saw an angel of Kinnaur and she is really a Kinnauri, an apostrophe that really suits the woman of this region.

A Kinnauri at Kothi village, Kalpa

Kothi is a village on the lap of Kailash-Kinnaur range of Himalaya. The very first thing one can encounter in his visit to Kothi is the Durga Mata temple. The temple bears the same typical notion of a fusion of Hinduism and Buddhism which is a feature of the temples of Himachal Preadesh. When we entered the temple, it was a prayer time of Durga Mata and it is the custom of them that to enter the temple one must wear the typical Himachali cap on head and we did same and entered the temple. They worship the Goddess with their own customs and tradition. They use huge musical instruments like sehnai, flute type instruments and tasa type things. 

Devotee and musician of Kothi

During their worship, I noticed that they were very devoted to their Goddess and since I was taking pictures through my camera, they asked me not to take any picture of Devima. The Temple has a huge bell in front gate and there is a main mandir some small rooms for the devotees surrounding this main mandir. Overall, we had a great time inside the temple.

Musical instrument for worship

After spending an hour and so, we came out of the temple and started to roam about in the village. It was fantastic to see such an independent village in this remote area of India. It had a huge Shiv Temple just opposite the Durga Mata Temple though we could not get into it since the gate was locked. There was small falls that runs the village with its gushing sound day and night. We spotted some grocery shops, a post office, a doctors chamber, a primary school in Kothi village.

Gram Panchayat, Kothi

and of course the village is surrounded by many Apple orchards though we could not spot any apple inside the village. However, visiting such a place on the lap of Kinnaur-Kailash Range just above Reckong Peo seems to create a dreamlike state in me now especially when I sit to write my blog on Kothi and I recall again again the images that we lived once thousands of miles away from the our busy city life.

Durga Mata Temple, Kothi

See the video https://youtu.be/yPcnFkNTmV8

Experience say:

1. Walk upto the village from the main entrance to enjoy the beauty of nature;

2. Do not hurt the local sentiment of devotees;

3. Do not take picture of the Durga Mata at main temple;

4. Do not buy apples from the local who are selling apples since they charge huge for the it;

5. Enjoy the beautifully crafted wooden work of the village;

Kalpa-Kinnaur, the heaven on earth

Today, we have to say goodbye to the Baspa river and again it's time to embrace the beauty of Sutlej since our next destination is Kalpa of Kinnaur district, Himachal Pradesh. Though the journey is not so long yet roads on hills especially the Himachal Pradesh are completely beyond any prediction. During coming to Chitkul from Sarahan, we took a right turn towards Sangla valley, today also we would have to cross the same road upto Karcham and then we would have to take a right turn to Powari. Reckong Peo (or locals lovingly call Peo) is the market place of Kalpa. And Kalpa resides just above Reckong Peo. Since we have already spent one night at an altitude of 11300ft, our body is quite acclimatized now to take the challenges of Kinnaur-Kailash Himalayan Range of Kalpa which is situated at an altitude of 9700ft with all her beauty of flora and fauna.

Setting Sun on Kinnaur-Kailash Range

After setting out from Chitkul on 9.30AM, we reached Kalpa at around 12.30PM. Our destination is the Kinnaur-Kailash Hotel of HPTDC since we have already booked our accommodation. During our journey, we have been experiencing so much fun and adventure on road. The steep and winding road to Kalpa gets sometimes choked due to jam but one such jam became boon for us. We got chance of having the Prasad of Kalimata on road near Powari where we had to stop due to jam on roads. And the incident got an everlasting impression on us since the temple authority were very generous to provide us all the food packets that we demanded and needless to mention, we were very hungry too. Mataji on that really saved us. See the video https://youtu.be/bBNaQpYC2Ns

Enroute temple to Kalpa

Crossing Powari temple after Powari, we took the Khwang Road taking a diversion on left that crosses Regional Hospital of Reckong Peo and Police Station of Peo, we reached our destination Kinnaur-Kailash of HPTDC at around 12.30PM. It's the last and highest spot of Kalpa and needless to remind that, the hotel is located at the best place from where the Kinnaur-Kailash Range is stone throw away.

Kinnaur-Kailash Range from HPTDC

The Kinnaur-Kailash range is closely and clearly visible from here that one can feel a presence of Himalaya in one's heart. Only thing one can do is to keep silence and enjoy the peerless beauty of Himalaya. Seriously, what a place! Apples are everywhere you can see surrounding you since it's the first week of October. Even, the HPTDC premises hosts a lot of apple trees that are overburden with ripen apples of various colours. The dining of the hotel is beautifully decorated with wooden work and completely neat and clean thereby giving the experience of dining over there a splendid touch especially when the Kinnaur-Kailash range is 180 degree visible through glass windows. It used to be my favourite moments sitting by a window and watching the setting sun igniting the peaks of the range tardily in that serene ambience.

Hotel Kinnaur-Kailash of HPTDC

Shivling is the main attraction of this range and it is custom that the trekkers and devotees of Kailash Porikroma starts their journey by worshipping this Shivling which clearly visible through open eyes from this place.

Shivling of Kailash range

The rooms of HPTDC are excessively big and quite spacious. The toilet is quipped with all modern amenities keep in mind the diverse population who flock at Kalpa every year in lakhs.

Experience say:

1. Start early so that you can reach early at Kalpa and enjoy the beauty of Kinnaur-Kailash;

2. Generally after 2PM a strong wind starts to blow on Kalpa and it becomes quite impossible to stay outside rooms;

3. After lunch, do not loiter here and there instead do not leave the dining hall and stay there to watch the peaks becoming red slowly with setting sun;

4. Coffee, tea, and other beverages are available in the dining hall;

5. Do not be busy in capturing the sun set moments instead enjoy the sunset on Kinnaur-Kailash range since it has an ever lasting impression;

6. After sun sets, keep watching the peaks becoming white wrapped in ice and the lights of the Hotel create a dream like state;

7. Do not pluck apples from trees since it is regarded a serious offence;

8. Foods are of very good qualiy in the hotel;

9. Try to book only HPTDC hotel when you are visiting Kalpa since only the property of HPTDC is at best location with best services;

10. Carry books or other reading materials since reading a book while sipping coffee and watching the various moods of Kinnaur-Kailash outside window amidst gushing winds is going to be everlasting in you;

11. All kinds of mobile networks are available in Kalpa;

12. While visiting Kalpa, do visit the two beautiful hamlets-Kothi village and Roghi Village for their extremely beautiful wooden work with tribal touch.

Chitkul, the last inhabited village of India

After taking a mouthful, delicious breakfast of Aloo Paratha and curd at Sarahan, we set out for our next destination to Chitkul, Himachal Pradesh and the last inhabited village of India. Chitkul is the place which can truly be remembered as the place where earth meets the sky through the peaks of Kalpa range of Himalaya. From Sarahan (2100 meter, 6900ft) to reach to Chitkul (altitude of 3425 meter, 11300ft), it took around 6 hours. Chitkul is a small and last hamlet at the border of India enriched with its tribal flavour, Kagyupa temple and hard but simple lifestyle of the villagers amidst the serendipitous beauty of Himalaya. This place is also very sacred for the trekkers since it's the last point of the popular Kinnaur Parikroma.

Sangla Valley

Chitkul remains inaccessible because of its high snowfall for more than six months of a year. This picturesque village draws its lifeline from the snow melted water of Baspa river that runs like vein of its body. Surrounded by the Snow clad mountains by 360 degree and falls, this place is just like a place found in fairy tale. There is only a handful of accommodations. One hotel Alpine View, Riverside Camps by Deblok Group of Hotels, and one Govt. PWD Bungalow are only available for accommodation.

PWD Inspection Bungalow, Chitkul

We reached there after crossing Rochham, Korchham, Sangla Valley. Here in Sangla for the first time we encountered the bliss of Himachal Pradesh, i.e. Red, Golden and Green apple here and there. we became really spellbound to experience such bounty of nature. Almost the whole Sangla valley was overflowing with the sight of apples. In the middle of our journey, we found a plenty of Walnut trees. The whole Sangla valley is full of apple trees and just before reaching Chitkul, one has to cover a stretch of 5-6 kms of Alpine Trees with falls of fresh melted ice from Himalayan peaks. The air is so fresh that one can hardly stay in car.

Apple at Sangla Valley

Chitkul is inhabited by the tribal people of Himachal Pradesh. It is also the location of famous Kagyupa Temple which bears the touch of local artistic work of wooden handicraft. See the video  of Chitkul, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQ4BAWxSM2g&t=20s 

Kagyupa Temple, Chitkul

Since Chitkul remains estranged from the rest of the world for more than six months in a year, the local people uses method of storing foods in order to keep their existence on earth and they are maintaining this tradition even today. They raise a platform and built square type wooden structure like a room on pillar and store foods for the winter season for the members of the village so that during crisis, food should be provided.

Food Store House, Chitkul

And they lock the store room with the traditional locks 

Typical lock used by the people of Chitkul

People of Chitkul are very industrious and during our stay we have seen they start their day at 5.30am amidst sizzling cold and arid climate.

Tribal woman at Chitkul

Hardworking people of Chitkul

From the Hotel Alpine View of Deblok Groups, it's some 5 minutes walk to the Kagyupa Temple and the village of the tribal people of Chitkul. The total population of Chitkul is 800 (Census, 2010). They produce organic products for their own and cattle use. During our visit, we have seen that they cultivate Ramdana that serves the purpose of rice to them. 

Ramdana

Experience say:

1. Do not drink alcohol if you are planning to stay at Chitkul since oxygen level falls at night;

2. Book your accommodation early;

3. Take sufficient comforter since temperature often falls below zero degree;

4. Charge the battery of gadgets early since there is a crisis of electricity;

5. Take your identity card with you since the military personnel check it before entering Chitkul;

6. Do not pluck apples from trees since this kind behaviour annoys the local people;

7. Try to reach Chitkul in daylight since it is extremely risky to drive the roads of Chitkul at night;

8. There is a bus service from Chitkul to Shimla that leaves Chitkul at about 6am.
9. Get up early in the morning to see the mountains becoming Golden to Silver with the morning sunrays.

Please note, there is a movie called Liar's Dice that very vividly shows the life and hardwork of the people of Chitkul.

Sarahan and Bhimakali Temple, Himachal Pradesh

On 28th September, 2017, after having breakfast at our Hotel Lord's Garden at Shogi and after settling with the Traveller sent from right away Chandigarh, we set off for Sarahan, the place of Bhimakali. Since the road that we have chosen is quite steep and long as well as winding , Traveller is the best option so far the vehicle is concerned. Around 9AM we started for Sarahan, and when we reached there it was dark in the evening. The journey is very soothing with 14-15 degree temperature and it was river Sutlej (Satadru) which will be always be there beside you through out the journey. We had our lunch at a place outside Simla and beside an apple orchard. Here, for the time in our journey, we have the experience and joy of watching an apple orchard right in front of our eyes. After taking our delicious lunch with Rice, Chapati along with Rajma , we again have come on the road towards Sarahan. It took 4-5 hours more to us to reach to Sarahan since the main road that connects Sarahan with the outer world was damaged and was being repaired and we had to take a diversion inside a village road from Jeori with knowing whether we are going to make it or not. However, it proved to be adventurous to us going through the mud road of that village and through the orange and apple orchards. We were very happy because it was something more to us and of course we are on our holiday; least knowing that after a few moments our car is going to struck badly on that muddy road. Our Punjabi driver tried a lot but in vain to get his car out of that mud. After a few moments of such war with mud and the car, we spotted a few more cars on that road to Sarahan and one of them happened to be our driver's friend. He helped the car pulled out of the mud and we finally made it to Sarahan, the place of Bhimakali.

Satluj (Satadru) river

Sarahan was the capital of rulers of former Bushahr State. Bushahr dynasty earlier used to control the state from Kamroo. The capital of state later was shifted to Sonitpur. Later Raja Ram Singh made Rampur as the capital. It is believed that the country of Kinnaur was the Kailash mentioned in Puranas, the abode of Shiva. With its capital at Sonitpur this former princely state was extended up to entire area of Kinnaur where for sometimes Lord Shiva disguised himself as Kirata. Today, the then Sonitpur is known as Sarahan. Banasura, the ardent devotee of Lord Siva, eldest among the one hundred sons of great ablative demon King Bali and the great grandson of Vishnu votary Prahlad, during the Puranic age was the ruler of this princely state (Wikipedia).

The Srikhand, HPTDC Guest House, Sarahan

Shri Bhima Kali Temple is a temple at Sarahan in Himachal Pradesh in India, dedicated to the mother goddess Bhimakali, presiding deity of the rulers of former Bushahr (Hindi: बुशहर) State. The temple is situated about 180 km from Shimla and is one of 51 Shakti Peethass. The town Sarahan is known as the gate way of Kinnaur. Down below at a distance of 7 km from Sarahan is the River Satluj. Sarahan is identified with the then Sonitpur mentioned in Puranas (Wikipedia).

Bhimakali Temple, Sarahan (South Side)

Inside Bhimakali Temple, Sarahan

Shiv Temple, inside Bhimakali Temple

The devotees gathered the temple from early morning. When we were staying at Sarahan, the ex-chief minister of Himachal Pradesh, Mr. Virbhadra Singh was on his visit to the temple to pray to the mother for the upcoming election. We have heard that it is the birth village of Mr. Virbhadra Singh and he frequently visits the place and the temple. A small market surrounds the area of Bhimakali Temple adjoining the HPTDC Guest House and Sarahan Police Station. I, being estranged from my other group members, had a single delicious breakfast of Aloo Paratha with curd and it was really fantastic. We could not yet spot any apple in the apple orchard because the climate at Sarahan is favourable for apple upto August and by then, the apples are already plucked.
The Bhimakali Temple authority provides limited accommodation to guests with a minimal amount. But, we booked The Srikhand, HPTDC Guest House, online and in well advance (nearly six months ago).
For more,  please visit my YouTube channel  https://youtu.be/-CmZUeolfP0

Experience say: 

i. Get enough fuel on your car since there are only a handful of petrol pumps;

ii. Check the tyre of your vehicle since the roads are not in good condition at some places;

iii. Book hotel on prior basis as there are only few one and to enjoy best beauty, book the HPTDC Guest House only since it's in the best location with best services;

iv. Take sufficient cash from Jeori during departing Sarahan;

v. Take pull over/cover handy if you are heading towards Sangla since the roads are dusty and muddy;

vi. Always book drivers from Himachal Pradesh;

vii. Do not pluck apple from any orchards since trespassers are prosecuted and even beaten by the local garden owners;

viii.Do not panic and in trouble always get help of the local police.

 

Fraud, Cheat, Drunkard, Drug Addict Drivers

Attention! Tourists planning to visit Kalpa-Kinnaur Side of Himachal Pradesh, here is a precaution for all of you.

Herewith, I shall share with all of you the misery that we had to suffer concerning the vehicle, Traveller that we have booked from Chandigarh and thought that our journey is going to be really a memorable one (though it became but in negative sense) completely forgetting the say that "All's well that ends well". 

During our journey Delhi to Kalka via Kalka mail, when our train came to a halt at Chandigarh station, some agents handed over their cards through the window to me saying that they would arrange cars for our tour which I have already explained to them. I took the card somehow very casually and kept that if we may need it in future. Look at these:

Kindly note down the numbers on the card and the names if you are going to visit Himachal Pradesh in near future. No not because they are experts in hospitality but because they are CHEAT, FRAUD, UNHELPFUL, UNCOUTH. WE HAD THE WORST EXPERIENCE EVER FOR THEM.

During our stay at Hotel Lord's Garden at Shoghi, we contacted with the number of Mr. Sanju to book the traveller for our upcoming 11 days tour. He eventually sent two Punjabi guys from Chandigarh along with one agent Mr. Arun. We thought since Punjabis are very kind hearted and service minded, our journey needs such people. The amount confirmed as Rs. 45000 for the vehicle for Shoghi pick up to Ambala drop (since our booking for train to Delhi was from Ambala). The amount was to be paid as Rs.20000 before boarding vehicle and rest of the amount on the finish of our journey. But we had hardly any premonition that our next couple of days with them are going to be a NIGHTMARE.

The two guys-Indar and Jitendar-are DRUNKARD, DRUG ADDICTED, UNCOUTH who always demanded money with excuses of loading oil in the tank, paying for friend's tyre etc. and we being helpless in the remote areas of Kaza, Tabo, agreed with them and paid them ehat they demanded though the contract was not like that. They always showed tantrums before going to any place from Tabo though we had discussed with them and even SMSd them our tour plan before boarding their vehicle. Thus, our tour started to be nightmare.Here is the guy Jitendar (I took it quite casually at Jeori)

They could manage Rs. 35000 from us upto Kaza and always tried to dissuade us from going to Keylong and stay at Manali though we had already booked all the hotels and journey from Keylong to Udaipur & Trilokinath. It took almost 10 hours to reach to Keylong from Kaza via NH5. And as soon as we reached the Highway, they tried to make board a public transport and when we didn't accept that, though they took us to the hotel at Keylong, and left us there at the HP Tourism guest house and boldly said that they would go to Manali and would not return. We just had our earth snatched way from our feet to hear that. We were helpless completely knowing nothing of the place. Such people should not be tolerated. But what do we do? We had five female members in our group. Two senior citizens. I thought first we need to get rid of this situation by arranging some vehicle to go to Udaipur and then Mandi; then we will move on to lodge FIR against them. Somehow, we could manage to get to Delhi on schedule but with utter tension and drainage of money. Such people who do not respect the travelers for whom they can earn their bread & butter should be put immediately behind the bars. WHAT A NIGHTMARE WE HAD FOR THEM!

Journey to Himachal Pradesh

Tour Plan:

Shoghi-Sarahan-Chitkul-Kalpa-Tabo via Nako-Kaza-Keylong-Udaipur-Trilokinath-Manali-Kullu-Mandi-Delhi

Let the journey begins...

Day 1 Shoghi

Shoghi is a beautiful Hill Station of Himachal Pradesh. During our journey, We wanted to avoid the hustle-bustle of urban life and this is why we have selected Shoghi as the best place to stay. Kalka to Simla narrow guage train starts every 30 mins upto 8.30AM (not strictly) and the route is really mesmerizing. The small train keeps on running across the jungles, bushes, roads, lawns etc. and some picturesque Hill Stations such Barog.

It took almost 4 hours to reach to Shoghi after crossing almost 120 tunnels amidst Pine Trees. And when we landed...just remained spellbound the beauty of Shoghi...it's so  serene, calm and fresh as we need not to go any other place but to stay there for a loooong time. 
Another station is definitely mesmerizing and noteworthy that is Barog. It's a fantastic place where the train stops for a while as if he authority wants us to see the beauty of Kalka-Simla Train route.

Barog provides guest house facilities to the tourists with a very nominal charges of approx Rs.300 to 400 per day. Next came Solan valley with its buildings and structures of typical Himalayan Style.

Unknown Hill station

 

View from train of Solan

 

 Solan Valley 

 

Solan Station

During our sojourn at Solan, I have experienced a very memorable incident. Some Management trainee guys on the Occassion of International Management Day were welcoming the boarders on the platform with Rose flowers with a huge sweet smile on their lips. If a journey starts with such note, definitely it shows that it is going to be special for the rest of my life. And thus came our destination SHOGHI and it's time o check in to our prebooked hotel, Lord's Garden.

Simla Joyride

Riding the narrow gauge train from Kalka to Simla amidst the ups and downs of the Hill tracks and pine trees is a life time experience indeed. Journey to Simla is incomplete without this joy ride.